El Rumbo Perdido

by Desaparecido

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Me dicen el desaparecido
Que cuando llega ya sea ido
Volando vengo Volando voy
deprisa deprisa a rumbo perdido

-Manu Chao


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After a few months in Durban I sold my motorbike and my computer for ticket to London and some cash. I spent my last month of Africa back in Jeffrey's Bay, back with newly old friends and a familiar wave.

Within the first week I rolled my ankle badly while surfing and was meant to spend some weeks out of the water. Fat chance. Three days later I taped it up and limped my way to the line up with Tom the owner's '73 single fin under my arm. In retrospect it was the best thing that could have happened. The retreat from my usually aggressive surfing to the style and feel of early wave riding was the best rehabilitation I could have hoped for. It slowed everything down, forcing me to alter every aspect of my surfing, appreciate it that much more. And because that board needed a long, solid wave to really move the way it wanted, I found myself being much more selective, spending longer periods of time waiting, watching.

Stopping to smell the roses I guess you could say.

Unfortunately the waterproof camera I had bought was stolen, and so I lost almost all of my pictures from that period. I do have a couple though; this one is my favorite.

From shortboards to retro single fins to no board at all.
17th Nov 2008, 16:09  

nige says:

fab pic.

17th Nov 2008, 16:28

Fantastic pic!

17th Nov 2008, 17:28

EJ says:

This is a great shot

17th Nov 2008, 19:49

Wowza. Great photo.

18th Nov 2008, 17:36

OCD Sprocket says:

brilliant

18th Nov 2008, 21:07

Dhamaka says:

gorgeous shot
faved

19th Nov 2008, 07:12

mara says:

FANTASTIC!

20th Nov 2008, 08:15

Euphro says:

Great story and superb shot!

21st Nov 2008, 11:17

540air says:

Exactly what E said :)

21st Nov 2008, 15:25

Viv says:

superb

22nd Jan 2010, 13:46

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